Wroclaw, Poland

9 Things to do in Wrocław

Honestly if I wasn’t from Poznan I would probably say Wrocław is the most interesting city in Poland. It’s cultural, it’s full of surprises, history, events and new ideas. While all the massive crowds stay in Warsaw or Kraków, Wrocław stays calm and not too crowded. Here a few tips of what to do in there.

  1. Walk with the Lamplighter

Wrocław is one of the very few cities that still has the romantic tradition of gas lamps. The whole Ostrów Tumski Island (the island where the Cathedral is) has 103 of them. Every evening there comes this lovely hero in his cape and hat and switches them on. He is a lovely guy who likes talking to people and joking around. If you miss him in the evening you can still see him switching the lamps off in the morning. The time in the evening and in the morning depends on the sun so in the evening he starts before the sunset and in the morning around sunrise. Fortunately the place is fixed. He always starts with the double lamps, just in front of the main entrance to the Cathedral.

 

  1. Go on the Gnome search

To be in Wrocław and not to search for its most popular inhabitants would be a real shame! The whole city is full of statues of tiny gnomes who are placed there by restaurants, museums, hotels or the city. They all have a story. To know more read our other post.

 

  1. Walk around and drink coffee at Four Denominations District

The name comes from four temples situated really close to each other. There is an orthodox church, a synagogue, a catholic church and of course a protestant one. Except for the fact that it’s an architectural pearl, it’s also very much a food destination. We especially loved old style grandma-like café Mleczarnia with fresh flower and amazing coffee as well as CIŻ, a Jewish café with Jewish coffee and delicacies like croissants with rose and dates and their cakes. Both of the cafes have stunning terraces both in the front part and in the back.

 

  1. Enjoy the beer cocktail at the Golden Dog microbrewery (Złoty Pies)

Yep, as weird as it sounds to drink beer in a cocktail it’s absolutely delicious and really worth trying. It helps that the waitresses are full of life, joy and knowledge. They will tell you all about their specialties.  There is nothing better than sitting in their garden, looking at the main square, sipping beer& chocolate& earl grey cocktail. We want to go back immediately when we think of it:)

 

  1. Enjoy the views of the city from the Witches’ Bridge

It’s a bridge connecting two towers of St. Mary Magdalene Church which gives you an amazing view of Wrocław. Don’t expect anything pretty while walking up, it’s really messy and there are signs of pigeons’ presence, if you know what I mean. No wonder as according to the legend walking over the bridge was a punishment for the ladies that prefer to flirt with men rather than marry them and take care of the kids.

 

  1. Cross the street with The Anonymous Pedestrians

Anonymous Pedestrians are statues going underground on one side of the street and appearing from the ground on the other. They can be found a short walk from the Market. It’s really worth seeing it as the sculptures are really detailed, you can see their faces, what they carry, almost what they think. It makes you think of all the forgotten “nobodies” who had to go underground during all of those tough years in Poland. No wonder that it's a memorial for the introduction of the martial law in Poland in 1981.

  1. Read a book and enjoy the peace at the garden of the Ossolineum

This library has the most amazing courtyard ever! All walls are covered with green ivy and in the middle there is a huge tree. You can sit on one of the few benches and just enjoy the silence. It's a perfect spot to escape the crowds and read a book.

  1. Stroll along the Oder River

There is nothing better on a sunny day than to walk around and chill by the river. Not only the islands are amazing but going a bit further from the center you get to see some quite unique architecture (like the National Museum) and picturesque bridges. It’s also possible to go kayaking or on a boat.

Moszna, Poland

How to feel like a king without spending like one?
Moszna Castle

History has not been kind to Moszna Castle… It was build (as it is right now) between late XIX and early XX century. After World War II it was occupied by the Red Army. Especially then a lot was damaged and even more was stolen. The Soviets decided to use a tiny chapel as a horse stable just to show their hate for the religion. Which can be seen even now on the stairs from the chapel. Later the Castle was a mental hospital for over 40 years up till 2013. Now finally it is a museum, restaurant and a hotel.

It was always my dream to sleep in a castle. I guess it’s a dream every little girl has and well maybe I still am one. Not to mention Moszna is supposed to be one of the most beautiful castles in Poland. It’s a bit of a weird place when you look at it closely. Every wing represents a different style but somehow they go really well together.  I thought sleeping there would be a budget breaker for us but I always check things like that just in case… And it turns out a night there starts from 150 zl per room… too cheap to be true?

We just couldn’t resist the chance and we decided to take the cheapest room and check it out. It was supposed to be just a double room with a bathroom on the corridor. We hope the corridor wouldn’t be too long. Arriving we are shocked. So not only the bathroom is private and just next to our room but tickets to the sightseeing of the castle are included in the 150 zl for the room. In disbelief we walk to our room and when we open the door we are amazed… We thought we would get the servants room somewhere on the roof or in the basement. Nothing like that. The room is enormous. We could play hide and seek in here. And it’s beautiful, all kept in style. Not to mention we have a view on the huge garden with a fountain and on the entrance to the castle. As I look outside of the window I see 4 newlywed couples on their wedding session. It looks hilarious as they all try to have the most amazing pictures with the castle but without the other couples in the frame. On our way to see the castle I comment that to the receptionist who tells me that’s nothing. One time they had 17 couples. That must have been entertaining.

As we go through the castle on sightseeing we kind of imagine how it was a mental hospital. Those long, endless corridors and tiles in some places are a bit creepy. And it’s not popular so the emptiness gives it the extra spookiness. But on the other hand it looks a bit like a fairytale castle with its 99 towers, 365 rooms and charming café and restaurant. Both serving good and not too expensive food.

Moszna castle is like another dream coming true for us. It’s relaxing, soothing and peaceful. The garden is amazing as well, perfect to picnic, read a book, walk around, stare at couples taking their wedding pictures.

For the receptionist I assume we are more of a nightmare really. Especially when we ask her to open the door before the sunrise because we absolutely have to take a picture of the castle…

How to get there from Wrocław?

First you need to take a train from Wrocław Główny to Opole and then from over there a bus to Moszna. The whole route with timetable you can check on e-podroznik.pl. I know it sounds very polish but it is in English.

How much does it cost?

Cheapest room is 150 zl per night. And that includes a huge breakfast consisting of absolutely everything: lots of fruit, granola, yogurt, sausage, eggs, ham, cheese, bread of all kind and much much more. Except for the breakfast it also includes visiting the castle. You only need to pay if you want to see the towers but you have a discount even for that so it’s 6 zl per person. On weekends Moszna Castle organizes other kinds of sightseeing or parties. To check it out and to check out all the other rooms and the restaurant menu go to http://www.moszna-zamek.pl/ . May google translate be with you 🙂 You have to call them or write them an email to reserve.

Wrocław, Poland

Our favorite dwarfs in Wrocław

Even though little dwarfs’ statues are quite a new tradition in Wrocław they already are quite a prominent sign of the city. It all started in the 80’ when painted dwarfs were appearing on the city walls as a response to the communist oppression. With those gnomes painted on the walls Orange Alternatives (the main protest movement) was humiliating the government that was trying to cover all the anti-communism writings and limiting the freedom of speech. The statues came much later. The first one called Papa Krasnal (Dad Gnome) was created in 2001 as a monument for the memory of what the Orange Alternative did. On 2005 the first 5 little dwarfs came and since then they have been growing in numbers. Now there are more than 300 gnomes and they are everywhere in the city. There is one eating pierogi (polish dumpling), another one drinking like crazy, even a hippo cleaner and a butcher. They are small enough not to be spotted easily. You have to search for them! And that’s when the fun starts!:) Our favorites below. If you need a little help to find them, we created a map below the post:)

  1. Krasnale Zraszacze- the Sparkling Water gnomes

There are two of them and they are by far our favorite ones. Not only are they cute but they bring a lot of joy to the kids and adults, locals and tourists. They sparkle water on hot summer days. They are actually new to the collection because the appeared on the Market Square just in june this year.

  1. Pomagajek- the Helpy Dwarf

Situated in front of a gift shop on the Market Square. He is encouraging people to buy gifts with him on them. By buying it you can help kids with incurable diseases. The Helpy dwarf looks really friendly and is supposed to remind us how important it is to help each other.

  1. Więzień- The Prisoner

Locked on the Wiezienna Street he has been sentenced with uncontrollable apatite. First he was stealing food from the tourists which was not so bad according to other gnomes but then he dared to steal pierogi even from his own kind. Sentenced for social work he was still unable to control his appetite so he ended up as a Prisoner.

 

  1. Krasnale Filharmonii Wrocławskiej- the Filharmony Dwarfs

There is a whole orchestra of dwarfs practicing outside of the Filharmony. They were unfortunately denied rehearsals inside the building. When we were there they were also imprisoned for a festival. I guess for their own good.

  1. WrocLovek- WrocLover

That gnome is in love with Wrocław and its people. He loves tourists as well and he wants to spread his love everywhere. He’s situated just on one of the corners of the Market Square.

  1. Chrapek- the Snorer

He sleeps in front of the Patio Hotel. Probably he got kicked out for snoring and disturbing other guests. But he is still a cute dwarf so at least they gave him a bed.

  1. Ottuś- the Otto Dwarf

Otto is a work agency and Ottuś is there every day running to bring his CV. He is very enthusiastic and sure this time he will get a job. Tale says he already got a job abroad. He has only one shoe, probably from all this rush. We also heard that touching his CV brings luck, financially and at work.

  1. Wypłatnik- the Withdrawer

By some he is called the Spender because sometimes he disappears to spend all the money that he managed to withdraw. In Wrocław there are a few banking dwarfs but this one is quite special. He doesn’t only have his cash machine but also his own little bank. He can be found in front of BZ WBK bank at the Market Square.

  1. The Modern dwarfs

We couldn’t find their names so we gave them our own names:) They are the Modern dwarfs and they don’t care about the tourists or locals they are too busy with their social media, phones, computers and tvs. There are quite a few of those but we chose our favorite two. Both can be spotted in the city center.

How to find them all?

It’s very hard because everyone can buy a dwarf so they grow in numbers quite rapidly. Also when a bank or restaurant moves and they own a gnome, they take him with them. Some of the gnomes also get stolen or they are a victim of vandalism. There is a database, it’s not complete but it’s the best there is. Go to krasnale.pl and you will find a map and some info on the particular dwarfs.