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Kyoto, Japan

Our favorite spots in Kyoto

After Tokyo, Kyoto has grown to be the biggest hot spot for everyone visiting Japan. Historical sites that miraculously survived World War II, Japanese crafts, ladies dressed in kimonos and so much more. Everyone can find something interesting here. So did we. Although at the beginning we were afraid of massive crowds, our fears faded away very fast.

  1. Our “little” secret garden of Gyoen National Garden and Imperial Palaces

Biggest surprise in Kyoto. In wonderful spots like these we expected crowds pilgrimaging  their way through the sites but I guess since it’s for free most people skip it. Somehow in Japan for most it’s hard to believe that there would be something remarkable to see that is free of charge.

The Gyoen National Garden is immense and beautiful every season of the year. In spring it’s blossoming with plum flowers, magnolias and famous cherries. In autumn maple trees turn red and even in winter they have flowers in season.

In the heart of the garden there is the Kyoto Imperial Palace and Sento Imperial Palace. It’s where the royal family lived and many of the most important ceremonies where performed so there is plenty to see. Everything is well maintained, beautiful and huge. The park surrounding the palaces is an oasis of peace in this often hectic city so we spent a fair amount of time strolling through it on various days.

With hours to explore, we discovered that the park has one more hidden gem, Kaninnomiya Mansion, old noble residence with a little garden and pond on its own. Before the capital was moved to Tokyo there were 200 households of imperial family members and court nobles, just like this one. Now only this one is standing and with a huge effort it was brought back to the original style from the Edo period together with a small teahouse. It shows simple beauty of Japanese architecture and it doesn’t hurt that that one is also free of charge.

  1. Bamboo madness of Arashiyama

This area of Kyoto is mostly known for its bamboo forest which seems to be the only one in the world judging by the crowds 🙂 We went after sunrise so we had it all for ourselves and we had enough time to walk around the neighborhood. Surprisingly it’s a very peaceful almost rural part of this booming city. It’s just perfect for a stroll through alley's of trees and houses. Not to mention the variety of small, charming temples scattered absolutely everywhere.

  1. Endless red tunnel of Fushimi Inari shrine

Probably the most famous Shinto temple and the most visited place in Kyoto. But it’s well worth it. We went there at sunrise and managed to skip the crowds. Not many people are crazy enough to crawl out of bed so early during their travels. The temple is beautiful but it’s the tunnel of red toris that everyone is coming for. A few kilometers of those gates lead beautifully through a forest to the top of a mountain which scares many and creates massive crowd mainly at the beginning. Along the way there are many statues of foxes that are believed to be messengers of the god of rice that the temple is devoted to.

Walking up hill we saw many signs offering setting up a tori gate. It turns out that they are donated by companies and individuals so if you want to prolong the tunnel and have some spare yen, there is still a chance! 🙂

  1. Evening vibes of Pontocho street

It’s the oldest entertainment street in Kyoto and in the evening it’s just magical. Dim light of street lanterns, numerous restaurants and tea houses and all of it in a very, very narrow street. Many of the spots there have a nice view on the other side so the river.

We heard it is the second best place after Gion to spot geishas going to their appointments. We didn’t have the luck but we still enjoyed its vibrant, busy atmosphere in the evening.

  1. (Mostly) window shopping in Nishiki Market and Sanjo-kai Shotengai Market

Nishiki Market is a one of the oldest shopping streets in the city. It offers a variety of shops selling fish, fruit and vegetables. Here we learnt a lot about Japanese cuisine, tasted many of the pickled veg and many types of sea weed. Worth a visit. Although we preferred less touristic Sajo-kai Shotengai Market with almost the same variety and also quite some nice cafes, restaurants and gift shops.

  1. The old days in Gion and its temples

Probably the most touristic spot of Kyoto and for a good reason. The number of people in kimonos per capita is the highest in the world. For us it was impossible to say whether those were tourists or locals dressed for the occasion. Surprisingly most of the visitors are Chinese and Koreans so for us pretty close to Japanese beauty… especially in kimonos. We had fun guessing, that’s for sure.

Ladies and gentlemen in kimonos are not the only attraction of Gion. Strolling through streets of machiya, wooden merchant houses, we really felt like we were travelling in time and walking alongside the Geishas from “Memoirs of a Geisha”.  Most of the neighborhood is crowded both with people and gift shops. To be fair, the souvenirs there are not cheesy, we spotted many stunning postcards as well as the best matcha cookies that still hunt our taste buds. For those who are not traveling on a shoe-string there is a treat of ice cream covered in golden leaf for a bargain of around 9 dollars. Possibly the most expensive ice cream that we have ever seen. The queue in front indicated that the business was doing pretty well.

Following the crowd you won’t miss the temples that are an absolute must see. Going with the flow we found Yasaka Pagoda and the Yasaka shrine and Kiyomizudera Temple further up. From there we had beautiful views over the old district and new, booming Kyoto in the far. Breathtaking sight even shared with hundreds.

Not too far off the beaten track there is Shirakawa Canal, absolutely charming part of Gion that was deserted every single time we went there.

  1. Even more olden days in Higashiyama District

One of the best preserved historic districts of Kyoto. To recreate the feeling of the olden days the city removed telephone poles and repaved the streets in recent renovation. The street has served travelers for centuries with its small cafes, restaurants and nowadays also gift shops. For food lovers there are plenty of pickle shops as well as rice cake stands.

  1. Magical athmosphere of Ishibei-koji Lane

It’s by far the most magical pedestrian lane in Kyoto. As part of the preservation project it’s forbidden to take pictures there. It’s the only place in the booming city where we could actually hear the shutter of the camera if there was any. It was beyond quiet even though there were a few chic restaurants and bars there. And the best part of it is that you leave the modern world outside, no cameras, no noise, no cables, nothing modern, just you and the old wooden houses.

  1. Contemporary side of Buddhism in Nishi Hongwanji Temple

Temple of one of the biggest Buddhist sects in Japan and the emptiest sight of Kyoto. There is not a single soul visiting the temple and it’s a shame. It’s not only massive but also a XVI century construction of somehow contemporary Japanese Buddhism. Not that there is anyone there to talk about it, the people in at the nearby information sadly don’t speak any English.

It turns out the temple is also a UNESCO site.

  1. Priester courters in Ninnaji Temple

Another UNESCO heritage site with underwhelming crowds. Maybe there is something about the word “sect” that scares people away. Ninnaji Temple is the head temple of another sect of Buddhism and was completed in 888. Unfortunately the nature and wars didn’t let the buildings from the 9th century survive. The oldest bit of the sight is from the XVII century. We especially enjoyed Goten, former residence to the head priest consisting of many smaller rooms connected by corridors and surrounded by rock and sand gardens as well as a pond.

  1. Zen gardens in Tofukuji Temple

Before visiting the Tofukuji Temple I associated zen gardens mostly with little, office size, sand treys with a pair of tiny rakes for a stressed businessmen to relax. Seeing it in real-life size was an incredible sight. The temple is as many in Kyoto but sitting down and looking at the circles and harmoniously placed rocks in the sand is an ultimately relaxing experience.

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Oman

How to travel long term without going crazy?

Long term travelling is not a vacation, it's being away from family and friends, missing weddings, births and birthdays, it’s having your house on your back and leaving the rest behind. Two years after we left our jobs and lives, being on the road became our lifestyle. It’s been an amazing journey that has taught us so much but it hasn’t been easy. Constant traveling, change of food, environment, packing, it all gets difficult after a while.

How to travel for a long time without losing your mind? How we adjusted our lifestyle on the road…

We can’t and don’t want to see everything

Sounds obvious but it took me a while to understand that. We get so many tips and so many times during my research I read that 100 km further there is again something worth visiting. And well we have the time, right?

It’s just impossible to see everything and at this point we don’t even want to because that means we would be running around the whole time and lacking time to enjoy where we are at that moment. As a remedy I decided that we would have some highlights of places we wanted to see and besides those we would go with the flow which for long-term travelling works best. Sometimes we met incredible people or hear of something really unique and we are able to join because we don’t have a tight schedule.

We unpack

We don’t have a house and diving into a backpack every time I'm searching for something, was driving me insane so I decided to unpack everywhere where we stay more than 3 nights. That is one of my favorite routines that makes me feel at home straight away. Even if there is no closet, I spread plastic bags under our beds and unpack there.

We take stuff we don’t “need”

When we left I thought I wouldn’t bring any make-up because I was going backpacking and I need to have a light backpack and cosmetics are just not essential. To be honest I just missed them. I just like having a bit of vanity from time to time and that’s a small treat for myself. Besides the basics are not so heavy to bring along 🙂 The same happened for me with books. I brought an e-reader because it’s handier and lighter but I missed the feeling of turning pages and reading a real book. After a while I decided to take books that I find and exchange them along the way. That has worked pretty well.

It’s true that the backpack needs to be light enough to carry around for some time but it needs to have things you actually like.

We don’t travel as cheap as possible

When we started in Argentina we were able and happy to travel cheap. Sleep in dorms, walk instead of taking a bus etc. But now we got tired of people turning on the light at night, coming back drunk or snoring. Thankfully Japan has actually forced us to lift the standard since economic guesthouses are more expensive than renting a small studio on Airbnb. It made us realize that we really have to limit dorms and shabby places to the minimum for the sake of our sanity. Sharing with others and meeting new people is great but we also need our own space and privacy.

We treat ourselves

Sometimes we go to the cinema or we buy ourselves something small. We try to lead a normal life on the road and treating ourselves is an essential part of it.

We cook

Eating out tends to be more expensive than cooking. More importantly budget eating out lacks in vegetables, nutrition value and many times its deep fried. That’s why we prepare our meals as often as possible. We eat a lot of vegetables, fruit and we drink a lot of water and tea.

Food is an important part of any culture and so we always try local cuisine and many times we try to prepare it ourselves as well. Cooking local means also lowering the costs, ingredients used and grown in the country are way more economic than those brought from abroad.

We stop

We never stay in a place less than 2 days (3 nights) and generally we try to stay way longer, preferably at least a week. We like exploring places slowly, being able to come back to a spot if we want to. We love stopping, observing, sitting down and chatting with people passing by. Many times we have lots of places we want to see in a day and we decide to stay at the first stop just because it’s magical and has a great vibe. We love the feeling that we have time to do so. Seeing less is often more for us.

Some spots change completely with light, seasons, and atmosphere. Canals in Amsterdam are not the same place at dawn as they are in the middle of a hectic day. Japan during cherry blossom is a completely different experience than during the winter months. Why rush if we don’t have to?

We emerge in a culture

We read, ask and observe as much as possible. That’s my favorite part of the journey. It’s a continuous, never-ending learning process. That’s partially why we prefer to stay in countries with longer tourist visa's. To feel that although we came with so little knowledge, we broaden our horizons and scratch the surface of understanding at least a bit.

Disappointment is part of the journey

Online research creates expectations and those are a perfect recipe for disappointments. We have seen so many places that didn’t impress us at all and they stood high on our bucket list. It’s part of the journey. If we didn’t see those we would probably still think they were amazing and regret not going. At least we know. It’s important to understand everyone is different and for someone Machu Picchu can be a life-changing experience. We know that Peru has so much more to offer and many of the Incan ruins are a true Indiana Jones treat so we didn’t feel impressed with overrated and crowded MP. We were still happy we saw it though.

We enjoy small things

We appreciate when the sun is shining but we are also happy when it rains. We enjoy the time we get to spend with people that inspire us and we try to let them know that. Every day we remind ourselves of just how lucky we are to get this opportunity from life and how important it is to be conscious about it.

We accept

Bus is going to be late? It will come tomorrow? Well than we have time to read a book, update the blog, talk to people around us. In long queues and never-ending waiting times I learned to crochet. Something I always wanted to be able to do but never took the time to learn.

Travel taught us adapting and making the best out of circumstances that occur. Why to drill and get mad at things you can’t change? It’s lost energy. It’s better to take a different approach and “row with the oars you have”as the Dutch say 🙂

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Plum blossom, Kyoto, Japan

You know you’re in Japan when…

It’s been more than a month since we arrived in Japan and every day we discover new, fascinating details that make this country truly unique. Nowhere else in the world have we seen modernity and tradition blended together in harmonious unity. Nowhere else have we seen inventions that left us wondering: why didn’t we ever think about it?? So we know we are in Japan when…

  1. The toilets are not quite like at home…

Already at the airport we realized that we landed in a world apart. “Western toilets” as they call them here are more western that we could even imagine… The seats are warmed, bidet options are built in and in public toilets there is usually an option to play some relaxing sounds to make you feel comfortable if you decide to stay for a little longer.

  1. You end up soaking in a bath

Rather than taking a shower, Japanese prefer to soak a bit in the bathtub. It’s their time to relax and chill out after a long day. In many houses bathtubs are filled by pushing just one button. A computer pours the exact amount of water needed and the temperature you like. When your bath is ready and warm, a female voice reminds you that you should dive in.
Onsens (hot springs) are another obsession here. Everyone goes there and every single person we met was recommending us one in each place we’ve visited. Some say that onsens make the Japanese look younger…

  1. 3 seconds rule really can apply

After 2 years travelling we sadly realized that there is dirt and garbage almost everywhere…. Except for here. Here if my cookie falls on the ground I would still pick it up and eat it. Everything is clean and gets washed before it’s even dirty.

  1. The search for a garbage bin begins

Although Japan is the cleanest country we have ever seen we still can’t seem to figure out where to throw away the garbage. Searching for a bin is a time consuming task. Mostly our patience runs out and we end up pushing our rubbish into can-only trash next to a vending machine…

  1. In a soup restaurant everyone is slurping

Making noises while eating is showing how much you enjoy it and a soup is the best way to do it. So people slurp loud and often. In Fukuoka there is a whole street serving ramen noodles in the evening and the sounds coming out there are like an orchestra.

  1. You see masks not only in operation rooms

We still don’t know why so many Japanese wear face masks. Some say because of the allergies or contagious diseases.  We also heard theories that it’s because of the fact that they simply don’t want to show their whole face…

  1. Eyes get bigger

Special contact lenses are very important especially for women. For most they are there just to make their eyes look bigger but some ladies go extra far to change the colors of their eyes. All to make them look more western. Another option is to use a special glue to lift the eye lid so that it looks bigger and more divided. There are even surgeries to achieve that…

  1. Starbucks has never been so popular

In every city we have been to it was packed. Friday night, middle of the day, doesn’t matter. It’s almost the same with McDonalds and some other western chains. Everything that is western is hip and exotic so McDonalds is a good spot for a teenage date. We have seen a few of those. Mount Everest of being romantic.

  1. You upgrade your socks

Constant taking your shoes off makes you realize how boring the ones we buy are. Here they have fun patterns of sushi, geishas, anime and everything you could imagine. It has to be cute, flashy and stylish. And preferable a section for each toe or at least a separate one for the big toe. We don’t have to tell you we are already crazy for those 🙂

  1. There is matcha everywhere

Matcha is a powdered green tea and it’s everywhere. In deserts, snacks, mains. On every street there is a commercial of something with matcha, every gift shop or supermarket sells tons of packages of the tea and matcha-flavored goodies. Highly addictive!

  1. You change slippers everywhere

There are slippers to go to the garden and other ones to go to the toilet and obviously completely different pair to just walk around the house. That doesn’t even end at home. Going to the doctor you take off your shoes and put special slippers on as well… Same goes for some temples and museums.

  1. You don’t have to be drunk to sing your heart out

Karaoke is completely different in Japan, here you literally get a room to do that. There are plenty of entertainment centers where you rent karaoke rooms with your friends. There is nothing better than to chill out on the couch with people you feel comfortable with and sing your heart out!

  1. People care about each other!

Walking into a train or metro people scoot over on a bench to make place for us two. They know we prefer to sit next to each other than on two ends of a carriage. They stand neatly in queues, they don’t cheat, they help, they smile, and they treat others like they would like to be treated. That’s one of the things we could learn from the Japanese society.

  1. The moss is not only part of the forest environment

Moss is omnipresent in Japan and it gives it this mysterious, green look. We were already wondering how come it’s everywhere even in city gardens when… we spotted moss stands on a market. It turns out here you buy pieces of it to put it in the gardens. Mystery solved!

  1. Plastic food has never looked so good

It’s all about the look and who wouldn’t enter if at the entrance you see all those delicious dishes! And you don’t even need to read the menu which you wouldn’t be able to understand anyway unless you speak Japanese. Plastic food is everything and it has to be perfect. Often we catch ourselves staring and thinking if the food on display is real or not…

  1. You bow, bow and bow once more

You have done something wrong if you don’t spend your day bowing in here. It’s very universal, works for hi, bye, thank you and anything else 🙂

  1. You get your receipt handed to you with two hands…

That one we couldn’t really figure out. Why all the cashiers were giving us the change, receipts and everything with two hands?? Apparently it would not be polite to hand it with just one hand.

  1. There are vending machines everywhere

Even in the middle of nowhere or in a small village there are still vending machines. Five types of cold and hot coffees seem to be the basic human right and luxury in here! Not to mention the selection of teas and soft drinks. Except for drinks there are also vending machines selling cigarettes, ice cream and small snacks. One thing is sure, you won’t ever get hungry or thirsty in this country.

  1. You forget that the supermarket isn’t a restaurant

Every single supermarket has a wide selection of already prepared dishes, beautiful sushi and even more perfect sashimi. We often take our time in the fish section to watch the mesmerizing process of fileting fish and cutting it into thin, even pieces. We always wonder how it’s done in a restaurant if in the supermarket it looks like art already.

  1. You can’t figure out the smoking rules

We were delighted to realize that there were only some assigned areas for the smokers to enjoy their addiction. But then we were enjoying our sushi in a restaurant and out of the sudden a cloud of smoke drifted towards us. We were shocked to discover that in most places you can smoke and there are no non-smoking areas… It turned out to be a bit complicated to find fume-free spots…

  1. Signs are too cute to go against them

Japanese people are all about being polite so the forbidding signs need to be colorful, fun and cute enough so that no one feels pressed to follow the rules. Every single day we discover charming, little signs showing how you collect your dog’s poo or how you should cross the street. We can’t help but smile every time we see one of those.

  1. You collect your stamps everywhere you go

Train stations, tea houses, museums, castles… there are stamps everywhere. We got completely hooked we can’t stop collecting them. Especially since some are really stunning and for us they are like very light souvenirs that don’t cost anything.

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Matsuyama, Japan

6 reasons to visit Matsuyama

As soon as we arrived in Matsuyama we realized that it’s not on every traveler’s list. Western faces disappeared and only Japanese and Korean tourists passed us from time to time. We were actually wondering ourselves what we would do in there. Initially we wanted to visit one of Japan's most famous bath houses (Dogo Onsen). We changed our minds and thankfully we discovered mind blowing sights that kept us busy.

  1. Matsuyama castle

Although it was damaged by fires and World War II, walking through it we realized there was not much of the original construction left but we didn’t regret visiting it. The wide view on the city and lower parts of the castle is already a good enough reason to buy the ticket. Except for that, we got to find out a lot about the history of the castle and specific parts of it from extensive info in English. A treat really! The castle is situated on top of a hill which sounds and looks like quite a hike but it really isn’t. It’s just a nice walk up through a forest passing through a big garden and other smaller parts of the castle.

  1. Hidden bamboo forest

One of the most famous and most visited sights in Japan is a bamboo forest in Kyoto. There is no reason to wake up at dawn or line up with other people to see it. You can just go to Matsuyama. There is a really big one in there, completely overlooked and it's really a hidden gem. We stumbled upon it by accident. I guess we are just attracted by bamboo. There we really could hear the music that bamboo trees make when moved by the wind. Something that with crowds and cars passing you by just can’t be appreciated.

  1. The secret tunnel

While exploring the outside part of Matsuyama we saw a weirdly looking tunnel just on the side of the road. Interested we just went right in there. It turned out to be a tunnel leading to Ishiteji Temple. It was dark, a bit spooky and mysterious. We were passing statues of Buddha dressed up in crochet clothes and chandeliers with weird hangers on them. That tunnel alone was enough to impress us not to mention the temple.

  1. Ishiteji Temple

Getting out of the tunnel we reached the Ishiteji Temple which is part of an important pilgrimage route. There are walking sticks everywhere with intricate inscriptions and colorful chains of origami cranes. The main square is surrounded by many temple buildings and a three-storied pagoda.

  1. Isaniwa Shrine

The shrine raises impressively over the center of the city, already from the street we saw what looked like a million stairs to the top. It’s definitely worth a walk for the view of the city as well as for the shrine itself. It’s quite small but full of little details and ornaments.

  1. Public spa

Matsuyama is mainly famous for one of the oldest onsens (Dogo Onsen) in the country. But for those who don’t like that kind of entertainment or are travelling on a budget there are a few spots across the city where one can rest with their feet in warm water. In the one just opposite the Bocchan train station there is even a place to warm up your hands. Perfect spot to stop and take a break from a long, winter walk 🙂

How to get to Matsuyama?

From Hiroshima Port we took a slow ferry which takes 2.5 hrs and costs 2000 yen (around 17 euros). That’s a special, low price available only for foreigners. For those who can’t wait or just want to go there for a day trip there is also a speed boat (3800 yen(32 euros) and takes a bit more than 1 hr).

Welcome to Fukuoka

Fukuoka was supposed to be our base to see the whole Kyushu Island. We couldn’t find any other place with affordable accommodation on the island and soon it also turned out that we couldn’t afford the trains going deeper in Kyushu either. Fortunately we discovered we wouldn’t be bored in Fukuoka at all.

The city itself doesn’t have good fame. From many we heard it was very industrial and just now it’s starting to do some major changes. For us it was just marvelous. Big, vibrant with lots of people but also no crowds that would kill us. It seemed like a perfect city to live in. Not only does it have small, charming streets full of cafes and restaurants just like Kyoto or Osaka where all the people in suits can hang out after work. But it also has other essential things for the Japanese: lots of shops. Japan could easily be the France of Asia. People care about their look here. So much that even with just a few degrees above 0 most ladies already walk around in sandals and short skirts. Beauty hurts… No wonder that in every major metropolis there are commercial centers and shopping streets. Fukuoka is no different. The Hakata Mall is like a little city with hundreds of shops and restaurants. For us It was a nice stop for free wifi and a little fountain show on the main square.

Just a stroll away from the beating heart of the city we spotted an oasis. Calm, green park and in the middle of it ACROS, an International Hall with tourist information and terraced gardens raising to the very top of the building where there is a viewing terrace. Great example of where the modern architecture should be heading.

Fukuoka is really a green city full of parks and the biggest one is just in the middle of the city. Ohori Park was perfect to go for a walk far from the crowds or just rest on one of the benches looking at the lake. But it was also fun to watch how the locals used the park. Except for the obvious running, walking and chilling out, people were using it also as a beauty salon for their dogs, trimming their hair to prepare for warmer, spring days.

As much as we loved Ohori Park, we couldn’t spot any flowers in there. But we have learnt that shrines are the best spots to do that. All the shrines starting from the famous Kushida Shrine were pleasantly quiet and free of charge. Here we started seeing the first cherry blossom. It turns out that there are variations that blossom earlier, even in February. Except for those we started spotting magnolias and other flowers everywhere. Spring was coming!

In Fukuoka we finally managed to taste matcha, powdered green tea so famous in Japan. We tried it everywhere we went in a variety of dishes but never as tea. In most of the places it was an expensive treat but in Rakusuien Garden we finally managed to enjoy a cup of matcha with some traditional sweets for a bargain of 300 yen (3 dollars). A treat especially considering that we got our very own private, little tatami room with views on the small garden. Unforgettable experience definitely recommendable for everyone coming to this part of Japan.

There might be plenty of restaurants and cafes but it’s the ramen stalls by the river that everyone is waiting for every single night. Yatai as they are called, are really small pop up restaurants that can seat maybe up to 10 people. They are famous for grilled goodies and very thin ramen noodles usually served in a yummy broth. Since the dishes are pretty cheap for Japanese standards the idea is to eat fast and leave 🙂 We were slowly working our way through the bowl of soup with our chopsticks while our fellow eaters were swallowing the food with the speed of light and the sound of an anime character. Slurping was the essential signal to show appreciation for the taste. We are still working on our abilities in that area. It doesn’t help that we were not allowed to slurp for most of our lives.

How we fell in love with Japan. Our first days in Osaka

For Jandirk Japan has been a dream waiting to happen. He loves manga, Japanese food, origami and Studio Ghibli. For me it was a brand new destination on my bucket list. A few years ago I didn’t even want to go to Japan. In my mind it was a futuristic country without proper culture and with plenty of cold people… ow boy was I wrong…

Flying from Sri Lanka to Japan we knew we were in for a big shock but nothing could prepare us for what was coming. We landed in Osaka where we met our Japanese friend Juri, that we became friends with back in Panama. She offered us the most incredible experience we could ever ask for. We stayed at her grandmother’s house! 🙂 Juri and her family were just so warm and open for us. Her grandma talked to us all the time 🙂 It was all in Japanese but sometimes we could really understand her and her smile was just warming our hearts. On the other hand the homemade food was warming our stomachs. Most associate Japan with sushi and maybe sashimi but it’s not just raw food. There are varieties of soups, fermented beans and dried ingredients. As weird as they sometimes sound (dried fish with sesame seeds as a snack) they are delicious, full of flavor and mild. Such a relief to our stomachs after spicy curries on Sri Lanka.

Then the technology struck us. First visit to the toilet and we were charmed. Warmed toilet seat, built in bidet and even relaxing sounds in public toilets were inventions that surprised us. Those were not the only ones. When the evening came it turned out that the Japanese like to relax and take a bath rather than a fast shower. We literally dived into the bathtub which turned out to be way deeper than the ones we have in Europe. If we have them… Here even those can be really brought to another level, computer pouring the exact amount of water, bringing it to the right temperature and keeping it that way… Traditional but yet so futuristic and modern.

What is better after a good, warm bath than a long comfortable sleep, right? We were a bit anxious we wouldn’t be able to achieve that as we were about to sleep on a tatami floor so essentially many straw mats put on top of each other. On top of that we put a futon which is a Japanese style, very thin mattress. And voila a beautiful and potentially very uncomfortable bed is ready! We fell asleep immediately and we slept just great.

Then we got to see the city with Juri. Strolling through the streets we were surprised by how modern but not western they were. How the people took their time in everything they did and how everything was just done to the best of their abilities. There was just perfection everywhere we looked. Walking between blossoming plum trees in the park next to the Osaka Castle we met a lovely old man who sketched a little map including every plum tree from the park. All that to visit the trees, write down how they blossom, when and for how long. He has been doing that for many, many years. There was just so much love and passion in his story and in the way he spoke about it. We felt enchanted but also sad… Because in Japan it’s hard to talk to people unless you speak Japanese and we knew Juri wouldn’t travel with us forever.

There is no way I could write about any Japanese city and skip the food and street life. In Osaka it’s absolutely essential. There is nothing better than to stroll through the Dotonbori District in the evening surrounded by neons and crowds. Every cafeteria and bar looked cozy, spectacular and inviting. Every shop had a beautiful display. I thought plastic food on display would be off putting. Here it just looked realistic and mouthwatering. Every restaurant showcased what they had on the menu so I think the fake dishes were actually made to order and customized. Sometimes we really had to look closer to see if it was the real deal or a great imitation.

Juri took us out with her friend and made us realize how different everything seemed. We thought we knew what karaoke was. People getting drunk singing their hearts out to more or less pleased public at the last call of the night. Not in Japan. Here you go with your friends, you rent a room in a kind of entertainment center you sit down on a couch like if you were home and then it starts. There is nothing uncomfortable about it, you sing and have fun with the people you know and like. You don’t have to be drunk either and it doesn’t even have to be the middle of the night. We went at 5 pm with our green tea and soft ice cream we sang our souls out to the western hits and even Disney songs.

Although normally we don’t go to zoos/aquariums we decided to do an exception for Osaka. We didn’t regret it for a minute. Osaka aquarium was massive and except for the usual we also saw a whale sharks and an incredible selection of jelly fish. Something we could have never seen diving. Or better we would prefer not to see them diving as many are just really dangerous.

In Osaka we felt we were off for a great start of what could be the best part of our journey so far. So a bit sad but excited we were off to Kyoto.

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