Author: In search of umami

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Siedlisko Sobibór, Poland

Siedlisko Sobibór- oasis of peace

Sobibor doesn’t bring the best associations forward. In Holland it’s known just as a concentration camp. Nevertheless, Poland goes on and with a booming economy the most unexpected branch of tourism flourishes… even there. Yep, I’m talking about agrotourism. It’s a tourism focused on enjoying nature, simple surroundings and life. That’s exactly what Siedlisko Sobibor is all about.

It used to be an old, forgotten farm but with a lot of love and hard work it became something special. Rundown buildings were brought back to their glorious times with traditional carpentry and restored furniture. Every single accommodation is different, yet together they create a peaceful, well balanced rural experience. There is a big farm house that has been there for more then 100 years, smaller log houses and an old stable. The new addition are two stilt houses hidden a bit in tree branches.

We decided to stay in one of the two studios in the old stable.

 

Our stay

Lace studio, in which we stayed, has its own kitchenette, tiny living room, bathroom and of course a bedroom. it was all very tastefully decorated with lace and in our bedroom, we had a true masterpiece, a huge rosette window… over 200 years old. It might not be the best choice for people who like to sleep long, the window lets a lot of light in. We loved it though, we could wake up naturally and enjoy the beautiful view of the rising sun over the fields.

 

The food

The meals served in Siedlisko Sobibor are not included in the price, but we would recommend at least trying them once. Breakfast is a feast of local produce. There is always a selection of local cheese natural or with herbs, meat cuts, pancakes, fruit and home baked bread. Heaven! It’s served as a buffet so there is plenty for everyone. There is also an option to sign up for dinner. The dishes are different everyday but it’s mostly hearty polish food made with love. Depending on the season you can expect mushrooms, variety of vegetables and homemade juices. The menu always included a soup, main course and a dessert.

The surroundings

Siedlisko Sobibor is a destination on its own. It’s meant to slow you down, make you relax, breath in the fresh air and enjoy the simple nature. The is no reason to come here if blissful nature is not your thing. There are no massive attractions nearby. You can go kayaking, bird watching or walk in a nearby forest. There are also lakes nearby but the biggest one is a typical example of cheap, polish tourism. There are plastic water bikes, plastic restaurant, mediocre food and all that set up in the most cheesy way possible.

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Podlasie, Poland

Podlasie- the highlights

Back in 2016 we went to Białowieża for the first time. On the bus there we spotted stunning wooden houses, colorful orthodox churches and an almighty forest. Afterall the region is called Podlasie which could be translated to “under, near forest”. Already then, we decided that we would come back someday with a car to be able to explore it properly. That occasion came sooner than expected…

Starting in Białowieża…

Our journey started in Warsaw where we rented the car, that was the most efficient and the cheapest way to approach our road trip. Later on we drove to Białowieża. We wanted to stay at Carska hotel and be as close as possible to the primeval forest. Białowieski National Park is an absolute must see and one of the very few untouched forests in Europe. It’s also a house for lots of wild animals. The most famous one is the bison. But we have already written a post about things you absolutely need to do around Białowieża.

This time I would really like to focus on other highlights Podlasie has to offer.

Tatar settlement

Poland is not a very multi-culti country, there are not many foreigners who live here. The same goes for religion, the crushing majority is Roman Catholic. In recent years that faith has been stronger then ever. Not going into politics… it’s extraordinary to see some variety in Poland, communities with their own faith and customs. Like Tatar settlements live in two tiny, tiny villages Bohoniki and Kruszyniany. We visited the second one and it left us speechless. It’s one of those experiences worth travelling for… even though the path there was quite rough and we thought we left paved roads forever.

Tatar history in that region dates to the XVII century when they were recruited as warriors to fight for our king. Afterwards they gained land and other professions. Nowadays they speak polish, but they keep their religion- Islam. It’s unbelievable that in a small village with just a few houses different faiths can co-exist. They even have their wooden mosque, where they gather few days a year. It’s possible to visit it and hear a story from one of the Tatars about their history, bond with Poland and their customs. It’s interesting and we would highly recommend it. The guide there will tell you passionately even about his marriage with a Polish woman, faith of their kids and local goodies. Talking about food… While there you CAN’T miss the Tatar restaurant on the other side of the road. It looks cheesy to the point that we seriously considered leaving the village and drive somewhere else. But we were so hungry that we decided to give it a chance. Sitting there at one of the plastic tables and observing dishes served on plastic plates we were wondering if we made the right decision. And then my coffee came… it was like if we were back in Oman. The coffee was intense, rich in smell and flavor. I could taste the cardamom straight away. I was intrigued. Then we got their layered savory cake with turkey and their traditional dumplings filled with beef and served in broth. Heaven. We could taste the love, the hours of hard work and the complexity of those dishes. It was better then any restaurant in Białowieża and we went to the best ones (supposedly). It was as if Poland met Iran and made the best menu possible. It gets even better… those goodies cost from 10 – 39 zl (2-9 eur).

 

The Orthodox Churches

They made us forget that we were still in Poland. They are the most prominent buildings in the whole region. Maybe it’s because we both haven’t seen one before, but they all seemed so different and so fascinating. Some of them were blue, some green, some “just wooden”, we spotted quite many with rich-looking golden ornaments.

Our favorite ones were in Trześcianka (green one), Puchły (blue one) and Narew (another blue one). Unfortunately, only the one in Puchły was open to the public, all the rest that we saw were closed.

It’s worth reading a bit about the differences between Roman and Orthodox churches. Unfortunately, the guy who worked in the only open one was not keen on sharing information. He was much more interested if people were married or not and if they had kids. If someone answered no to these questions he would be very unsatisfied and unpleasant so better to keep your mouth shut.

The Land of Open Shutters

That’s the name of a collective of three small villages (Soce, Trześcianka and Puchły). Their name is a tribute to their exceptionally well-preserved wooden architecture, especially their shutters. It’s also an attempt to maintain them and keep the traditions alive. It’s a very rural area so many farmers opt for a modern, more efficient way of building/restoring the house instead of taking care of the wooden beauties they have. It’s hard to blame them since it’s probably difficult and pricey.

Thankfully those three spots still manage to keep the past alive. They not only have colorful, open shutters in all the shapes and forms but also carved, wooden ornaments on the facade of the house to go with them. Together with flowers, small farms and dirt roads it creates a very cozy, rural feeling.

 

How to get to those places?

A car is a necessity! The interesting spots are quite far from each other and we haven’t seen any buses connecting those. Bah! To some there isn’t even a paved road. A plus is that you’re most definitely “off the beaten track”. Podlasie isn't a popular destination so you can be almost certain to explore everything without a fear of crowds.

We rented our car via Pepe Car, we literally took the cheapest option which cost us 10 EUR per day plus 4.60 EUR per day for an extra driver.

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Carska, Bialowieza, Poland

Orient Express Experience in Białowieża

The Orient Express has always been a very highly placed dream on my bucket list. The old-time splendor, smell of wood, sounds of a riding train and excitement of a new adventure…. Who wouldn’t want it?

Over the years I have searched for Orient Express-like trains… and they were always outrageously expensive. I already made peace with the simple fact that that item will never disappear from my bucket list. Life works in mysterious ways and in the least expected place I found out that my dream could be an affordable reality.

Carska apartments

A couple of years ago we visited the Białowieski National Park to see bison and untouched nature. During one of our bike trips around Białowieża we came across an old train station now adapted as a hotel and restaurant. Quite a bizarre sight considering how dense the surrounding forest is. Back in the XIX century it was one of the favorite hunting places of the ruling Tsar. He loved coming there but the last part of the journey had to be done on horse and was difficult during autumn and winter. To get there faster and easier he decided to create a train station. In 1897 the work was completed, a station named Białowieża Towarowa came to life. With time it became a destination for passengers and goods trains. Somehow the place survived the First and Second World War and years of abandonment. In 2003 its new owner decided to turn it into what it is now… an extraordinary hotel and restaurant.

The first time we saw it, we could only admire it from the outside. It might be affordable for European standards but for our backpacking budget back then it was a vague dream.

Our stay

The idea of coming back there popped in my head as my 30th birthday was approaching. I really wanted that day to be special. After all you don’t say goodbye to your twenties every day.

Carska offers various accommodations in the old water tower, station agent house and… train wagons. It was clear to me that we had to get that last option.

The wagons are designed to bring back that XIX century Tsar splendor and make you feel like you travel back in time. Each of the four is a bit different but all of them are stunning, filled with vintage pictures, lamps and even a peculiar belt opening system for the windows. To maximize the feeling of a train they are connected with a vintage steam engine locomotive. Pure orient express experience… maybe except for the fact that it’s not moving… But we had a solution for that too. We played a YouTube clip with sounds of a moving train. It was just pure magic.

At night the place was pitch dark and it played tricks on our imagination. As we got used to it we appreciated the sounds of nature coming from everywhere, stars including the Milky Way (absolutely no light pollution) and flying owls.

For forest lovers there are amazing paths just a short walk from the wagons that we indicated on the map below.

The food

Carska restaurant serves local cusine inspired by Tsar times. Their menu features a lot of game meat, berries and mushrooms. It’s tasty although quite pricey. They also serve breakfasts that are included in the price for the guests. The quality and quantity really vary per day… and is a bit underwhelming considering that the hotel is rather high-end for polish standards. Once we had an average breakfast in the restaurant room and once in a beautiful hunting room with a huge selection of meat cuts, egg creations, fruit etc etc.

How to get there?

There are buses going to Białowieża but because Carska is situated outside in the forest it’s very recommendable to go there by car. For a more affordable option (if you don’t have too much luggage) you can also rent a bike in Białowieża.

How much does it cost?

One night in one of the wagons costs around 100 eur. Other accommodations vary from 80-130 eur.

More about activities around Bialowieza?

Head to our previous post about it:)

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Vuurtoreneiland, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Lighthouse island- middle of nowhere near Amsterdam

There aren’t many places around Amsterdam that make me feel like I’m at the end of the world. Holland is well designed, everything has its place and sometimes nature seems to be literally engineered. That and the fast pace of the booming city can be tiring which has brought us to a perfect afternoon escape on…

Vuurtoreneiland – Lighthouse island

As you might realize by its name it’s a tiny, tiny island with not much more than a lighthouse. It’s close enough to Amsterdam to reach it by boat in less than an hour but it’s also far enough to forget that there even is a city nearby.

The secret of its beauty is simple… there is just not much there. In such a densely populated country with almost all the areas carefully planned it’s an achievement to find gems like this.

Except for omnipresent sheep, there is just one house, fort leftovers and a stunning glass house that serves as a restaurant. That brings us to the essence of our journey there.

Why go there?

Vuurtoreneiland offers a unique dinning experience. It all starts with a boat journey that shows you Amsterdam and the surroundings from a completely different perspective. First, we got to see a bit of the modern parts of the city spread along Zeeburg and IJburg and then a bit more the rural parts. Already at departure we got a basket with some snacks for the way and some aperitif. Honestly, it’s not much so joining the experience on a completely empty stomach might be a bad idea.

 

After arriving on the island we had some time to walk around, sit by the water or go straight to the restaurant. Luckily the boat carries maybe around 30 people so it really doesn’t feel crowded in any of the spots.

Since we managed to visit the island in the summer season we could eat in a beautiful modern, glass building. From every side we had a view on the surrounding water or the lighthouse. It was just beyond beautiful especially during sunset. Since the kitchen is open and in the middle of the restaurant we could not only see how all the meals are prepared there but also estimate when was the right moment for a walk in between the courses.

In final end it’s a dining experience and so the main highlight is the food. It’s all freshly prepared on the spot. It’s cut, smoked, cooked and fried using the best local produce with lots of greens and love. We especially enjoyed the smoked turbot and sautéed chanterelle. But don’t get your hopes up on those since the menu changes all the time and you never know what you’re going to get until you’re there. The only thing you can be sure of is that with every dish there will be a delicious glass of wine 🙂

 

How to get there?

You can only get there with one company that organizes dinners, lunches etc. For summer season you really need to book immediately when they open a certain date (especially during weekend) which is 2 months in advance. For winter arrangements it’s less crazy but then you eat in the underground bunker. It's not a cheap entertainment but its uniqueness is well worth the price.

 

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De Haar Castle, The Netherlands

Castle De Haar- A day trip from Amsterdam

Many consider de Haar Castle the most spectacular castle in The Netherlands. I can’t judge it since I haven’t seen them all… just yet. Nevertheless it is the biggest one in the country and it’s definitely stunning and worth a day trip from Amsterdam.

The first mention of the castle dates back to 1391 but since then almost its entirety has been destroyed on various occasions. The present look is the effect of a 15 year restoration project by Pierre Cuypers, the same man that has built the Central Station and Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. It sounds like a very long time but then again, a house with 200 rooms and 30 bathrooms can’t be created overnight. His vision and talent extended also on the surrounding gardens, chapel and even the nearby village Haarzuilens.

What is there to see?

You can see a great part of the interior of the castle including some of the rooms, bedrooms, office areas and even the old kitchen. Outside there is a giant park to visit with a Rose Garden, Chapel and a long canal in the end of which there is a quite a stunning view on the castle.

The park is a great place for a picnic or a nice afternoon with a book. There is even a small café to buy coffee and snacks.

The Castle also organizes various exhibitions all year round for example about celebrities visiting the baron and baroness. It’s a well-known tradition of the Van Zuylen family to stay at the castle for the month of September and throw parties. Even though since the year 2000 they are not the owners of the property they still kept that right. In the past the events were attended by for example Roger Moore, Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurens.

How much does it cost?

Admission to The Castle costs 16 euro. If you want to visit the Park it’s an additional 5 euro.

How to get to De Haar Castle?

I have to admit the best way to get there is by car… However with a bit of patience and time at hand, it’s possible to reach it with public transport within 1.30 hr. First you would need to take a train from Central Station in Amsterdam to Utrecht and then bus number 9 that goes to Haarzuilens, so the nearby village. From there it’s just a short walk to the castle.

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Heusden

A peaceful weekend in Heusden

Mostly we choose a destination because there is something interesting to see or do in there. Scrolling through B&Bs on bedandbreakfast.nl I decided to change that approach. What if we chose an accommodation to be our prime destination? Sounds like not a bad idea for a country of unstable weather. And aren’t cute hotels located in beautiful places anyway?

That’s how we got to discover Heusden in the southern part of Holland. After a little bit of research it turned out it was a fortified town which already promised at least some history. Underwhelming pictures on google could just mean two things: either this tiny city was not a tourist attraction or there was not that much to take pictures of… Either way, enchanted by the potentially stunning B&B we decided to give it a chance.

Heusdens Logement is situated in an impressive XIX century house just a short walk away from the main square. It offers only 3 rooms so it’s really homie and cozy. The only thing that it would have in common with a hotel would be… impeccable style. The whole house is beautifully furnished with unique antiques, all of which were gathered by the owners. Every little detail is thought through, there are flowers on the table, paintings on the walls and even the doorbell is unique... good that JD knew which part of it we had to pull on.

 

The house ticked something off my bucket list- sleeping in a typical Dutch house. Nothing compares to waking up with those magnificent, massive windows with a great view on the street. Or at least that’s what I thought before I got the chance to relax in a bath looking out through equally grand windows in a bathroom as big as half of our apartment…

As you can imagine the B&B was a 10 out of 10 experience. But how about the town itself?

It reminded us a bit of Naarden, close by Amsterdam. The walls that used to protect and surrounded the city are now overgrown by vegetation and inviting for a stroll with views on the town. The center itself is small but big enough to provide restaurants, cafes and shops for the weekend. Just next to the harbor there are also three windmills. Although they were built in the 70's, they don’t look modern at all. No one who loves Holland for its windmills will be disappointed. Except maybe for a small detail… they no longer work. Every now and then the blades turn just to please the eye.

Heusden is not really famous for anything, nor has it got any of “the biggest” or “the best” so we don’t mention any local attractions. But that doesn’t mean it’s not worth visiting. We loved it for the atmosphere of enjoyment. It seemed to us everyone had time there, time to relax, sip some beer on a terrace, talk. We enjoyed strolling through those lovely streets and most of all we loved the peace. The importance of the last one is often underappreciated. We really liked not having a whole list of things to see for once and we would really recommend it to any busy bee out there.

How to get to Heusden?

It’s easy to get there with public transport. First you have to go from Amsterdam Central Station by train to Den Bosch. Later on you have to take a bus nr 135 that will take you straight to Heusden. All in all it takes a bit under 2 hours to get there.

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